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The New Magnificent Mammoth

December 28, 2011

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Mammoth

Mammoth Mountain now sports up to 27 lifts, including the new "six-pack" Eagle Express and a Panorama Gondola that will take you from the slopes to The Village, a newer development full of restaurants, shops and luxury condominiums.

Note: Snow this December 2011 in Mammoth is scarce; however, resort operators are confident that it will come.

The last time I visited Mammoth Lakes, Calif. I was woken up about midnight by the ground shaking, and it shook several more times during the night.

Having recently seen the movie “Dante’s Peak,” in which a long-dormant volcano near an idyllic mountain town erupts and only one road out is available to safety, a similar description to the town of Mammoth Lakes, I could not fall back to sleep, worrying about how I was going to get out of town with my children and friends if the volcano blew.

That was 10 years ago, and the volcano near Mammoth still hasn’t erupted.

Now, this might not seem a propitious way to start a travel column, but the shaking ground and the idea of erupting volcanoes has not deterred growth in any manner at Mammoth, where the best skiing within driving distance of Los Angeles can be found (the Long Valley Caldera near Mammoth Lakes erupts about every 200,000 years; the most recent was 50,000 years ago, so it’s good for another 150,000 years).

First skied by those hardy enough to be pulled by rope tows powered by Ford Model A truck engines, Dave McCoy, a tow operator, bought the rights from the U.S. Forest Service in 1945 to operate a permanent rope tow; 10 years later he installed the first chairlift, Chair 1.

Today, there are 27 lifts, including the six-person Eagle Express, high-speed quads and the Panorama Gondola.

Intrawest bought a stake in Mammoth Mountain in 1996 and many new upscale amenities have been added to the ski resort.

The old Mammoth Lodge, with its multistory “rabbit-like warren” of hallways filled with lockers, ski shop and rental stores, as well as executive offices, is still the same (due for an upgrade soon I am told), but new is The Village, with upscale dining, lodging, shopping and even art galleries, located at the junction of Main Street and Minaret Road; you can ski to lunch by taking a gondola straight to The Village from the Canyon Lodge.

My sons and I went to lunch at Lulu, an upscale, yet casual (how can you not be, when tromping in with skis boots, gloves and assorted gear?) spot. The Peppered Calamari with Mustard Aioli is prepared with a light, yet buttery batter, and the Rosemary Chicken sandwich is quite delicious. For dinner one night, we went to Burgers Restaurant across the street, which was packed-waiting time at least 20 minutes without reservations. The portions at Burgers are large, the shakes are yummy and the staff is very friendly.

Also new in Mammoth Lakes are The Lodges at the Snowcreek Resort and the CreekHouse residences, both of which are the ultimate in luxury living in a resort town. The Lodges, which is off Old Mammoth Road behind town, is a 106-home community of two to three-bedroom living units, with up to 3,273 square feet of living space.

The unit we spent time in was decorated with large comfortable brown leather sofas and chairs, rustic yet unique furniture, and the kitchen would delight any gourmet cook, with plenty of granite island countertop space and top-of-the-line appliances. We had a beautiful view of an open meadow and the Sierra Nevada Mountains from the deck of the home, from where we watched the sunset.

The view will change, however, once plans are approved and ground is broken for a five-star Banff-like hotel and the addition of nine holes to the existing Ted Robinson-designed golf course. Also planned are a health and wellness spa, an equestrian center, and restaurants and shops for the area. However, if the developers stick to the classiness in which they’ve developed all other stages of Snowcreek Resort, the quiet beauty of the resort should be retained.

Another wonderful amenity of staying at the resort is the nearby athletic center, where you can do anything from playing basketball on a full-size indoor court to take spinning, yoga and swim classes.

The CreekHouse town homes, 118 in all, are scheduled to be completed soon, and have all the luxury amenities of The Lodges.

The new living units and town homes are a far cry from the first condominiums built in the 1970s at Snowcreek, of which the rooms are nice, yet compact. They are the more affordable options for those looking to buy at Snowcreek-a two-bedroom with loft was reselling for $699,000. The starting rate for a unit at The Lodges is $935,000 for a two-bedroom two-and-a-half bathroom unit, and the highest at the time of this writing-$2,025,000 for a three-bedroom with loft and four-and-a-half baths with double-car garage. Rentals start at $190 per night, midweek, for a one-bedroom and go up to $1,105 for a weekend night stay in a four-bedroom unit.

While some might lament the continuing building, some locals say it’s good for the area. Julie Wright, a broker for Snowcreek and a 20-year resident of Mammoth, said she’s worked every job under the sun to get by during that time-the new hotels, resorts and businesses afford better opportunity for locals and visitors alike, she said.

The one thing that definitely has not changed at Mammoth is the skiing-it’s worth the five-hour drive (Horizon Air plans to begin regional service from LAX starting late this year). On the Friday we visited, lines were short, snow was plenty and the sun was shining.

 

Resources:

Snowcreek Resort: 800.544.6007; 760.934.3333; www.snowcreekresort.com

Mammoth Mountain: 800-mammoth; www.mammothmountain.com

Burgers Restaurant: 6118 Minaret Rd; 760.934.6622

LuLu Restaurant and Bar: 1111 Forest Trail, #201; 760.924.8781

Tip: A great place to sled near Mammoth is found at the turnoff Tom’s Place, off Highway 395. Take the road west four miles to the end. It’s great for cross-country, too.

 

Filed Under: Central California Tagged With: golf courses, hiking, mammoth mountain, resorts, skiing

Ojai Delights

December 25, 2011

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The Gecko room porch looks out onto the grounds of the Emerald Iguana Inn in Ojai. Architect March Whitman used the 1900s river stone- and woodwork of the original buildings on the site as inspiration for the Art Nouveau inspired cottages. Image courtesy of Emerald Iguana Inn

Ojai Valley is a unique place for visitors and residents alike in that it offers distinct settings and activities, from the famed Ojai Music Festival to camping and fishing, to fine dining, wine tasting, and art gallery and spa hopping.

The Ojai Music festival, now in its sixth decade, happens next month, and it might be tough to find a place in town to stay near Libbey Bowl, where the main concerts take place, or anywhere in the “village” (as the local government describes itself) of 8,000 people, however, it’s worth a try to get a room at The Emerald Iguana Inn, which is a few blocks walk to the main part of town, and to Libbey Park. If booked, its sister lodging, The Blue Iguana, is off Highway 33, the main road into Ojai.
Ojai natives Marc and Julia Whitman bought the property that houses the Blue Iguana Inn about 13 years ago. They transformed a broken down motel into a rustic, stylish inn with a desert-like feel. The Emerald Iguana Inn was the second such venture for the couple that at first faced opposition from local residents, but the result is such a delight it is hard to imagine anyone opposing such an eye-pleasing establishment.Marc, an architect, designed both inns and Julia focused on the interiors. The feeling when arriving at the Emerald Iguana Inn, located in a cul-de-sac at the end of residential street, is that of a private retreat surrounded by lush foliage, flowers and a grove of California native oak and sycamore trees.
Emerald_Iguana_Inn_Hotel_Ojai_California_IguanaA multicolored, tiled “Emerald Iguana” fountain greets guests at one side of the gravel driveway. A medium sized pool is surrounded by an iron gate, and more plants, flowers and trees add a tropical feeling to the area. Breakfast of boiled eggs, an assortment of pastries, yogurt and fresh fruit, along with coffee or tea, and fresh orange juice is served daily, and in the evenings, guests can stop by the poolside office for wine and cheese. Both inns are beautifully appointed, with the Emerald furnished with items from Europe and Asia, and some rooms having wood- burning stove fireplaces, whirlpool or claw-foot bathtubs and private patios or balconies.

The focal point of the Emerald is the original “River Rock” house on the property that is nearly 100 years old, which Marc used with his unique style of architecture, featuring organic materials, and shapes and lines. Much of the artwork at both inns features Ojai artists, including that of Marc’s mother, Nancy Whitman.

Guests of either inn can be treated to private tours of the Taft Botanical Gardens, which is a must-see if one if visiting Ojai.

Situated on more than 20 acres, the gardens are renowned for their South African and Australian native plant collections. With the many unusual and colorful species of cacti, flowers and plants, it is an extraordinary experience to walk through the gardens; it feels as if you could encounter one of the fanciful characters from the story of Alice and Wonderland.

Dining in Ojai

The Ranch House, Ojai
The Ranch House is a legendary eatery in Ojai.

The Ranch House is a legendary eatery in Ojai. Founded more than 40 years ago by Alan Hooker, current owner David Skaggs (along with wife Edie) first got his start as a waiter there. Using herbs from its onsite garden, the gourmet dishes are fresh and delicious. The wine list is extensive with more than 650 selections, and the service is excellent. It’s as if you are dining amongst good friends or family members. The dining areas are set amongst lush foliage and one can take a walk through the gardens, where a stream wanders. If you dine there, the Grilled Diver Scallops are a must. Huge, tender U-1 0 scallops are grilled and served on lightly curried sweet corn sauce with oil infused with dry vermouth and basil, and shredded bok choy.

For a casual, no hassle lunch try Antonio’s Mexican Cantina at the east end of the main strip of Ojai. Nick Moeller, a former Hollywood nightclub manager, and his wife decided that Ojai was the perfect place to raise their two children, and bought the place from the original owner five years ago. Basics such as cheese enchiladas and nachos will fill you up as you take in the sun in the outdoor patio.

Vesta Restaurant also offers outdoor dining behind the main avenue (the restaurant can be accessed off Ojai Avenue across from Libbey Bowl, or from the courtyard in the back). Tasty, fresh lemonade is the perfect accompaniment to their sweet potato, garlic or rosemary-salted fries (order the Three-Way and you can have a taste of all three.) A variety of salads, sandwiches and wraps is on the lunch menu, and the macaroni and cheese is very good. The restaurant has a full wine and beer list, as well as specialty drinks. Before or after dining, you can browse for home or culinary accessories in the front store.

Casa Barranca Winery Tasting RoomOjai is filled with a plethora of wine tasting opportunities. If you’re downtown and don’t want to go too far, try the Casa Barranca Winery Tasting Room and Art Gallery, located a few doors down from Vesta.

You can get a Shangri-La Flight for $10, featuring organic and vegan wines, or the Chiefs Peak Flight for $15, which also features organic and vegan, and unfiltered wines. Their 2007 Cabernet Franc, which is unrefined, unfiltered and vegan, is a smooth red that sells for only $30 per bottle.

If you love the music and crowds, do visit Ojai during the festival; if not, an off-season visit in February or March is a perfect time to visit. The weather may be a little cooler, but the quiet and the beauty of Ojai Valley are worth it.

 

 

 

Information:

– Emerald Iguana Inn: 108 Pauline St. Ojai, 93023; 805.646.5277; www.iguanainnsofojai.com

– The Blue Iguana Inn: 11794 N. Ventura Ave. 805.646.5277; www.blueiguanainn.com

– The Ranch House: 500 S. Lomita; 805.646.2360; www.theranchhouse.com

– Vesta Restaurant: 242 E. Ojai Ave.; 805.646.2339; vestaojai.com

– Antonio’s Mexican Cantina: 106 S. Montgomery; 805.646.6353

– Casa Barranca Winery Tasting Room: 208 E. Ojai Ave.; 805.640.1255; www.casabarranca.com

 

 

Filed Under: Hotels, Southern California, Spas Tagged With: Dining, hotels, ojai, resorts, Southern California

Paradise in the Desert (Palm Springs)

February 1, 2011

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“Welcome to Paradise,” said the manager.

This was in the midst of a “Twilight Zone” experience of trying to check in at the La Quinta Resort and Club in the desert, though, not due to the fault of the staff at the resort.

La Quinta exterior

The La Quinta Resort and Club in Palm Springs

Gracious and accommodating they were, despite the fact my name could not be found on the reservations list, or anywhere else for that matter.

I waited as staff members flurried back and forth, trying to solve the mystery as to why my planned visit of one night at the famous hideaway resort and club, with some of the best golf courses in the world, was not listed anywhere. I was offered a refreshment, “A glass of wine, perhaps?” which seems to be the customary welcome to guests checking in. At first I said no thank you, and again no thank you after a second offer of a drink, though I did say, “I might need one soon,” when the staff did not recognize the name of a person I was told would be my contact at the resort. I finally did say yes when I was told the restaurant where I had dinner booked did not exist at the resort, or anywhere in the town of La Quinta.

As I sat in the rustic, yet plush, comfortable 85-year-old Santa Rosa Lounge, sipping my chardonnay, the manager at the time said even though there was no record of me at all at the hotel, I would be staying in a casita–with a private patio and spa.

I cannot say enough about how gracious the staff at La Quinta is. They are trained to make each and every guest feel as if they are the most important person they have visiting the club. And with absolute sincerity.

The exterior of a casita at  La QuintaAn employee on a gas-powered cart led me to parking near my casita, then to my room, where the bellboy showed me how to work the spa and the fireplace in the spacious room with a firm, king-sized bed. The bathroom itself had a “king-sized” bathtub, with a glass-enclosed shower next to it and a double-sink counter. It was 4:30 p.m. by the time I collapsed on the bed. As I contemplated the mystery of my Twilight Zone nonexistence (my stay was set up by a third party-I found out later I was mistakenly booked at a different hotel), I decided the best way to relax after a 3-and-a-half hour drive from Los Angeles (the drive normally takes 2-and-a-half hours max.), was to jump in the perfectly temperature-set spa with jets. So private is the patio and casita, I could have jettisoned my bathing suit-but, just in case, I kept in on.

The surrounding jagged, rocky Santa Rosa Mountains, which were outlined by a deep, cornflower blue sky, could be seen from my little corner of paradise. And when dark falls, the stars fill the sky.

Walter H. Morgan, who came to the desert in 1921 for health reasons, built the La Quinta Resort and Club, originally called the La Quinta Hotel. It was a self-contained, secluded hideaway for celebrities, high-profile politicos and society leaders-a place where the rich and famous could romp and relax away from prying eyes. It is located about 20 miles past Palm Springs, off the I-10.

So many famous people have stayed here it would be impossible to say who was the most noted guest. On the literary (and showbiz) side-Frank Capra stayed in one of the original 20 casitas. It is said he penned “It Happened One Night” in Casita No. 136 (named San Anselmo). The original desk he used sits in the casita, with a copy of the Academy Award-winning script for guests to peruse. Apparently, he became superstitious about his stay in the desert and returned year after year to pen other equally regarded classics such as “You Can’t Take it With You” and “Mr. Smith Goes to Washington,” among others.

All the rooms and suites (now numbering 640) at the resort and club are decorated with old world, Spanish hacienda-style furniture.

On the other spectrum of famous guests-one casita is named the Eisenhower Villa. President Dwight D. Eisenhower came to visit friends at La Quinta while he was still in office, and played golf here. The first golf course in the Coachella Valley was built at La Quinta-a 9-hole course designed by golfer Norman Beth, at the cost of $50,000. Greens fees were $1, open to the public.

The idea of pampering guests with massage treatments started in 1946 when John Balaban, a Chicagoan who bought it from hotelier Arnold S. Kirkeby, hired Marvin Guziewicz. For 39 years, Guziewicz treated guests to “massages in the sun.”

Now the resort and club offers a sybaritic array of spa treatments ranging from “celestial” showers and mustard baths to whole packages that include massage, facials, baths or showers and a choice of a variety of “body wraps.”

A stroll through the various sections of the 45-acre grounds takes you through the courtyards of other casitas, past pools

Pool-at-La-Quinta-Resort-and-Club

There are 25 pools on the grounds of La Quinta named after famous guest, such as Dietrich and Garbo.

(there are 25 on the grounds named after famous guests-Dietrich and Garbo were near my casita) and gurgling fountains. It is an extremely romantic place, however, families were seen at dinner and even at the health club, which was all right by me. There are so many activities here to keep everyone busy that I would consider bringing my children for a visit.

Most romantic to me was the setting of the Plaza and the Plaza Bar, which is elevated above a courtyard filled with sections of flowering gardens and fountains, and surrounded by shops. A musical group called The Inka Kings played indigenous, melodic tunes, while guests either dined or just partook of beverages outdoors. The weather was perfect-in the mid- to high-70s in the day (in early February)-although a bit colder at night.

I dined at the Adobe Grill, where I had a divine appetizer as a main course-a tamale pie made with layers of corn meal, sour cream, sauce and cheese.

At 11 a.m., despite the fact several hundred guests were to check in and out that Sunday, I was taken on a tour of the Mountain golf course, one of five at the resort. I do not play golf, but the beauty of this course astounded me. The contrast between the green lushness of the course and the desert rocky mountains it abuts is amazing.

The 16th Hole is my favorite. After riding up a narrow path, you have to get out of your cart and walk up a set of stone

Mountain Course at La Quinta Resort - La Quinta, CA

Mountain Course at La Quinta Resort - La Quinta, CA

stairs to the 16th tee. It gives a spectacular, complete view of the rest of the course, including the Dunes course and beyond.

Later, I visited the Hacienda Grande in the northeast section of the resort where my casita is located, which is a suite with living and dining rooms, and with its own private pool in addition to a spa. He said actor Joe Pesci always angles to get this corner to himself.

And, after all the kindness of the staff at La Quinta, I was even allowed a late check-out of 2 p.m., which gave me time to indulge in another dip in the spa, swim in the Dietrich pool, and to luxuriate in the sun.

Ahhh yes, paradise it is.

 

Filed Under: Destinations, Hotels, Southern California, Spas Tagged With: Golf, La Quinta, Palm Springs, resorts, Spas

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